Gold was probably found on the ground and used by prehistoric man as a tool. Highly sophisticated gold art objects and jewelry were discovered by archaeologists in the Royal Tombs at Ur, in what is now Southern Iraq, and date back to approximately 3000 BC. Similarly, goldsmiths of the Chavin civilization in Peru were making ornaments by hammering and embossing gold by 1200 BC. This indestructible metal is completely recyclable and virtually immune to the effects of air, water, and oxygen. Gold will not tarnish, rust, or corrode. Still, you must take care of your gold jewelry because it can be damaged.   Quality of Gold The term karat (represented by k or kt) is used to designate the proportion of fine gold in an alloy. The word karat (and also carat, the unit of weight used to measure gems) derives from the Italian carato, the Arab qirat, or the Greek keration, all meaning the fruit of the carob tree. The seeds of the fruit were once used to balance the scales in weighing gems and gold in Oriental bazaars. 24 k is considered pure gold and is 99.999% pure. 100% pure gold is nearly impossible to refine. Other karats of gold - 9k, 14k, 18k or 22k - are not pure and have been mixed with some alloy or combination of silver, copper and/or palladium, and sometimes platinum. This dilutes the "precious" gold component and also affects the color. The higher the karat, the softer the gold, and the yellower it will appear, thus making it the perfect media for jewelry designers to work in because of its malleability. In the U.S. 10 k is the legal minimum accepted standard of gold karatage, with 14k the most popular. In France, Italy and Switzerland, 18k is the lowest permissible standard to be called gold. England accepts 9k gold, while in some countries of the world, 8k is the legal minimum standard. 24 K = 100% Pure (European Marking Fineness 999) 18 K = 75% Pure (European Marking Fineness 750) 14 K = 58% Pure (European Marking Fineness 585) 10 K = 42% Pure (European Marking Fineness 420) The Symbols of Gold K, k, KT, Kt, kt, CT, ct Gold caratage (karat, carat) ranges from 8 to 24. Originally carat refered to the unit of mass or weight based on the Carob seed or bean used by ancient merchants in the Middle East. Today the carat is still used to refer to the weight of gem stones (1 carat is about 200 mg). As for gold, it has come to be a measuring of the purity of gold. Pure gold is defined as 24 carats and is .999% pure. Ex: 14k, 14kt, 14KP, 14K-P, 14 PLUMB, 14/24 PURE and .585 PURE all mean the same thing. KP, kp Karat Plumb, Plumb is used to guarantee gold content is not less than shown. Ex: 18kp GP, gp, G.P. Gold Plated- refers to a metal item that has a very thin layer of gold applied to it. The thin layer normally wears away more quickly than gold in a gold filled item. It has a very thin layer of gold bonded to a base metal core. The layer of gold in gold-plating is only required to be seven-millionths of an inch thick. Ex: 14kt gp GF, gf, G.F. Gold Filled- refers to a metal item that has a thin sheet of gold applied to a base metal core but the layer is thicker than in plated items. The layer of gold in gold-filled items is about one hundred times thicker than gold-plated items. Newer items contain markings that indicate how much and what type of gold was used in the layer. A marking of 1/20 12K G.F. means that the piece is at least 1/20th 12K gold by weight. In gold-filled products, the gold layer must be at least 1/20th (5%) of the overall product, by weight. Any purity of gold may be used; most gold-filled products are made with 12k or 14k gold. The purity of gold used can be determined by the notation in front of the words gold-filled. 14/20 Gold-filled and 14k Gold-filled both refer to a gold-filled product in which 14k gold has been bonded to the base metal core. Likewise, 12/20 Gold-filled and 12k Gold-filled indicate that 12k gold has been bonded to metal. Ex: 14kt gf HGE, H.G.E., hge Heavy Gold Electroplate, is also sometimes called Vermeil. Vermeil consists of a base of sterling silver coated or plated on all significant surfaces with gold, or gold alloy of not less than 10 karat fineness, that is of substantial thickness7 and a minimum thickness throughout equivalent to two and one half (2 1/2) microns (or approximately 100/1,000,000ths of an inch) of fine gold. Ex: 14k H.G.E. Troy Weights: The imperial system for measuring the weight of precious metals and gemstones. 24 troy grains = 1 troy pennyweight (dwt) 20 troy pennyweight (dwt) = 1 troy ounce (oz) 480 grains = 1 troy ounce (oz) Why Use 20-24k Gold if it is Soft? It's not too soft to be handcrafted or to hammered by designers into unique and beautiful individual items of jewelry. When properly worked by hand using ancient techniques of the Egyptian, Anatolian and Byzantine craftsmen, it becomes "work-hardened" and resistant. Other Gold Characteristics Gold is the most ductile of all metals, allowing it to be drawn out into tiny wires or threads without breaking. As a result, a single ounce of gold can be drawn into a wire 60 miles long. Gold's malleability is also unparalleled and can be shaped or extended into extraordinarily thin sheets. For example, one ounce of gold can be hammered into a 100 square-foot sheet. Gold can be hammered so thin that sunlight can shine through it. Gold is so heavy that one cubic foot of it weighs half a ton. Gold is a very dense metal with a density of 19.32 g/cm3 which gives it a very heavy atomic weight of 196.9665 g/atom, which is why solid gold jewelry is so heavy. About Gold Color and Alloys used in Gold Gold comes in a variety of colors. Gold alloys, aside from strengthening gold for jewelry, can also affect its color. Increasing an alloy makes gold harder and more difficult for the jewelry designer to work with. Various combinations of alloys and gold create different shades of gold. Pink or rose tint is created When gold is combined with copper. Green shades are created by adding silver to gold. Yellow the natural color, is kept when gold is alloyed with copper and silver. Yellow gold is the most popular shade in the United States. White gold is an alloy of gold and some white metals such as nickel, silver and palladium. White gold can be 18k, 14k, 9k or any karat. For example, 18k yellow gold is made by mixing 75% gold with 25% other metals such as copper and zinc. 18k white gold is made by mixing 75% gold with 25% other metals such as nickel, silver and palladium. So the amount of gold is the same but the alloy is different. Most gold jewelry contains a mixture of at least two other metals. The Golden Rules: Caring for Gold Jewelry Storing Your Gold Jewelry Protect your gold jewelry by storing it safely or keeping it wrapped in a soft cloth when not being worn. When you purchase gold jewelry, each item should come in a box with a velvet or satin lining. Gold jewelry should not be stored in pouches where parts of the item may rub against each other (as with a necklace, bracelet or earrings). This will cause scratching and wearing away of gold when the pieces or parts brush against each other, especially if the item contains diamonds or other gemstones. Two different gold items should not be kept in the same box. If you are insistant on storing several gold pieces of jewelry together then be sure to wrap each item individually in tissue paper or a soft cloth before keeping them in the box. This will help to safeguard them from scratches caused by hard gemstones or from gold parts rubbing against each other. Keeping Gold Jewelry Clean Clean your gold jewelry gently with a cleaning solution of sudsy lukewarm water or a good gold cleaning liquid. Dry and polish jewelry gently with a chamois, synthetic chamois, or soft lint free cloth after cleaning and rinsing. When cleaning gold jewelry, always use soft, non-abrasive material. Gold cleaning solutions can be useful for maintaining the shine on your gold pieces or on delicate links, granulation and filigree, which a cloth alone may not reach. You may also bring your jewelry to your local jeweler. Keep gold jewelry free from dust, moisture, perspiration and makeup to avoid skin and fabric discoloration. Be sure to avoid cleaning gemstones and pearls with gold cleaner and soapy solutions. Pearls are especially delicate (see About Pearls). Do not use paper towels as they may scratch gold and gemstone surfaces. Heirlooms and Delicate Jewelry Family heirlooms and antique jewelry can be very delicate and must be handled very delicately. Wipe them with a soft cloth, or get them cleaned by a reliable jeweller. Never jumble jewels or several pieces of jewelry in small containers. Always keep your genuine gold jewellery away from costume jewelry and keep jewelry of different karatages separately. Why Does Gold Discolor Skin or Fabric? You may think that faulty manufacturing or under-karating might be the problem when an item of jewelry, blackens or discolors skin or clothing, or you may think it is a problem with the jewelry itself. However, that is not the case. The most common reason is metallic abrasion, caused by makeup on skin or clothing. Cosmetics often contain compounds that are harder than the jewelry itself, which wear or rub off very tiny particles. Very finely divided metal always appears black rather than metallic, so it looks like a jet-black dust. When this dust comes into contact with absorbent surfaces such as skin or clothing, it sticks, forming a black smudge. To prevent this, you might try switching cosmetics. If this is not possible, it is recommend that you remove rings and other jewelry while applying cosmetics, and clean skin areas in contact with jewelry with soap and water. Another cause is actual corrosion of the metals. Gold itself does not corrode, but its primary alloys of silver or copper will do so (forming very dark chemical compounds) under moist or wet conditions. When we perspire, fats and fatty acids released can cause corrosion of 14-karat gold, especially when exposed to warmth and air. This problem can be worse in seacoast and semitropical areas, where chlorides combine with perspiration to form a corrosive element that discolors skin. Smog fumes gradually attack jewelry and are evident as a tarnish that rubs off on the skin. We suggest that you remove jewelry often and use an absorbent powder, free of abrasives, on skin that comes into contact with your jewelry. Even the design of jewelry can be an influence. Wide ring shanks have more surface area to contact abrasives or corrosives. Concave surfaces inside a shank form collection points that trap moisture and contaminants, also causing a type of dermatitis. To prevent this, remove all rings before using soaps, cleaning compounds or detergents, and clean rings frequently paying special attention to specific stone care requirements as well. For example pearls needs special care, only use mild soap and water, never use harsh abrasives. Softer stones should never be placed into a sonic cleaner, etc. As well as solving the problem, you'll be amazed at how much better your rings look! In addition to these corrective actions, perhaps you should switch to 18-karat, 22 k or 24 k gold or platinum. The lower alloy content of 18-karat gold (25%, versus almost 42% in 14-karat gold) significantly reduces the problem, and the use of platinum should eliminate it completely. Some Information taken from Man and His Gold, published by The Gold Information Center, and the World Gold Council. Please email Loewe if you have any questions.